It’s that simple. When you buy a new car, you typically lose hundreds or thousands of dollars just by driving it off the dealer’s lot, and the depreciation just keeps on coming after that. But if you buy an older car in good condition, much of the depreciation will be “taken out of it,” as they say, leaving you with a perfectly fine car that holds its value pretty well.
Here’s my question, though: What happens when you need to buy replacement parts for that used car? As you’ll quickly discover if you go to a dealer’s parts counter, the prices for new parts can be outrageous. It doesn’t always make sense to pay top dollar for replacement parts when you’ve already saved so many dollars on the car itself. There’s got to be a better way, right?
Right. In fact, there are three better ways, as far as I can tell. Here are three tips for making sure you get the parts you need for your pride and joy.
1. Check Salvage Yards for Rare Items
Salvage yards are great for obscure parts that cost an arm and a leg from the manufacturer, or may no longer be available at all. If you get lucky, you’ll find a salvage car just like yours with some undamaged parts to choose from. I’m not talking about standard stuff here, like A/C compressors or transmissions. I’m talking about an original T-top glass panel for a 1985 300ZX, or a door handle for a 1969 Chevelle. Oftentimes, you just can’t find stuff like this anywhere else, so you’re at the mercy of your local salvage yard’s inventory.
Fortunately, salvage yards these days use modern computers to maintain sophisticated inventory systems, and they care about winning your business. There are even national websites like www.partshotlines.com and www.partmyride.com that let you search multiple yards in your area — you might stumble across exactly what you need with one click. For those impossible-to-find parts, this is definitely the way to go.
2. Consider Remanufactured Parts
Expertly remanufactured parts can be as good as new, and there’s no doubt they’re going to save you a bundle of cash. Big-ticket items like transmissions, heating/cooling systems and even entire engines can be purchased from quality rebuilders for a fraction of what they’d cost new, and they usually come with warranties, too. Advance Auto Parts happens to sell a number of remanufactured components along these lines, so that’s a great place to start. But I’d also suggest checking with local machine shops in your area, as well as mechanics who specialize in your car.
3. Don’t Always Buy Used Parts
I want to be clear about this: there are some situations where you just want to minimize risk. Let’s say you need a replacement starter, for example — a “wear item” that you absolutely count on every day. I’d spring for the new one, to be honest with you. When you’re dealing with older cars at the salvage yard, who knows how close their starters were to failure, you get me? I wouldn’t take that chance.
Some other vital parts that come to mind are airbag assemblies and car brake components, because you don’t want to mess with your safety on the road. And when it’s time to buy new parts, make sure you check out Advance Auto Parts—you’ll be getting quality parts that last a long time, and you’re going to like the bottom line.
What used or remanufactured parts have you tried?
Tell me where you got ‘em and how they’ve worked out for you. Would you do it again? What would you do differently?
Editor’s note: Check Advance Auto Parts for most all of your OE parts needs. Buy online, pick up in store.
I get this one all the time, from parents and kids alike: What’s the best car for a first-time driver? And in most cases, “first-time driver” means teen driver, whether it’s a high-school student who just got her license or a college freshman driving off to campus. So I’m thinking about safety, number one, but I’m also looking for fuel economy, technology and just plain old fun. Want to see the winners? Here are the top 3 cars I’d recommend.
The rear-wheel-drive Scion FR-S is one of those cars that looks fast, but don’t worry, Mom and Dad — it’s actually quite a bit slower than a garden-variety Camry V6. That doesn’t mean it isn’t fun, though; on the contrary, the FR-S will put a smile on anyone’s face, teen driver or otherwise, with its laser-sharp steering, excellent transmissions (manual or rev-matching automatic) and growly four-cylinder engine. This is basically a world-class sports car without the world-class power, which makes it the best first car for budding driving enthusiasts.
Fortunately, the Scion FR-S is about more than just the sporty stuff. It also got top scores from the Insurance Institute of Highway Safety in every crash test, and you can expect up to 34 mpg on the highway, according to the EPA. Throw in a standard eight-speaker Pioneer stereo that includes new car tech such as Bluetooth/USB integration as well as a touchscreen interface, and what’s not to like? Well, the tiny backseat is a lowlight, but otherwise, the FR-S should impress.
The redesigned Mazda 3 is a beautiful car, first and foremost, but I can’t recommend a ride just based on looks. It’s got to have a good foundation, too. And the 3 has one of the best, striking an excellent ride/handling balance on the road that makes me think of the BMW 3 Series. If you’re tempted to get the bigger 2.5-liter engine, I urge you to reconsider; the base 2.0-liter four-cylinder is a joy to wring out, especially if you get the buttery-smooth six-speed manual transmission. Plus, fuel economy with the smaller motor is an amazing 41 mpg.
The Mazda 3 is a pleasant surprise on the inside as well, boasting snug front seats, upscale materials and an available touchscreen that also employs Audi-like knobs on the center console. On the safety front, it aced the latest IIHS crash tests. Now here’s the clincher: you can get all of this goodness for under $25k. Honestly, I’m tempted to buy one myself.
I’m talking about two cars here, really: there’s the “Mk6,” which is made in Europe and just wrapped up its production run; and there’s the “Mk7,” a redesigned, Mexican-built model that debuts for the 2015 model year. Either way, the Volkswagen Golf is a heck of a hatchback. I love the understated yet high-quality interior–you could slap an Audi logo on the steering wheel and it would work just fine. The optional turbodiesel four-cylinder, a.k.a. “TDI,” can get you close to 50 mpg on the highway if you drive it right. And the turbocharged GTI delivers truly spirited acceleration, especially the new 2015 model with its robust 258 pound-feet of torque (the outgoing GTI makes 207 lb-ft).
Now let me give you a reason to hold out for the Mk7 Golf: the base engine will be an energetic 1.8-liter four-cylinder turbo that’s a huge upgrade over the old five-cylinder lump. I actually liked the five’s gravelly voice at full throttle, but its fuel economy was seriously behind the times. So if you’ve decided against the TDI and GTI, wait for the 2015 to get a regular Volkswagen Golf. Otherwise, even the Mk6 Golf lineup gets perfect crash scores from the IIHS, and it offers a touchscreen with all the device hookups you need. So don’t dismiss a Mk6 TDI or GTI because it’s old; you might just get a great deal on one.
What are your top picks?
Those are my choices, but I always like to hear what you folks have to say. What are your top new cars for first-time drivers? Let’s discuss in the comments.
Editor’s note: Whether you’re a seasoned road dog or a first-time driver, Advance Auto Parts makes maintenance easy—with great selection and even better values. Buy online, pick up in store.
There are basically two reasons why you’d want to replace your headlights, right? First, maybe one of your headlight bulbs burned out–a safety hazard that can get you an unwelcome ticket from the local authorities. Second, maybe you’re tired of the pale yellow glow from your stock headlights, and you’re ready to upgrade to better bulbs or something like xenon headlights with an HID conversion kit. Either way, you’re probably here because you’re looking for some advice on how to proceed. So let’s dive right in and talk about the best replacement headlights for your needs.
1. Replacing a Burned-Out Headlight Bulb
Here’s a rule of thumb that I always tell people when they’ve got a burned-out headlight bulb: if one bulb’s gone, the other won’t be far behind. It just makes sense to replace both bulbs at the same time.
But now let me give you a tip that’ll save you a few bucks: Don’t go to your dealership to get the replacement headlights. Sure, those dealer lights might have the manufacturer logo stamped on the metal somewhere, but the truth is, manufacturers tend to use the same suppliers as auto parts stores. They just charge you more. And if you get your replacement headlights at a place such as Advance Auto Parts, chances are you’ll end up with brighter, longer-lasting bulbs than what came with your car.
The only problem with buying headlight bulbs on your own is that they don’t install themselves, so you’ll have to figure that part out as well. Fortunately, it’s not too difficult. Many independent mechanics will install the bulbs for you at little or no cost, and if you’re feeling adventurous, you can look in your owner’s manual for headlight replacement instructions.
2. Upgrading Your Headlights
Unless you’re lucky enough to have a car that came from the factory with xenon headlights (a.k.a. HIDs or high-intensity discharge lights), you could probably use a little more light on dark roads. One option is to pick up a couple non-xenon replacement headlights, because as I said above, they do tend to be more powerful than your factory units. It’s a simple and cost-effective solution that might be all you’ll ever need.
Another option is to check your headlight lenses to make sure they’re not cloudy or yellow with age. If your lenses are dirty, it doesn’t matter how nice your bulbs are–you’re still going to have illumination issues. Especially if your car is on the older side, it wouldn’t hurt to pick up a reasonably priced headlight restoration kit and clean up those lenses.
But if you really want the latest and greatest in headlight technology, xenons are the only way to go. They’re the ones with the distinctive white or bluish-white glow, and they’re increasingly prevalent on new cars nowadays, even non-luxury models. You’ll need a xenon conversion kit to do it right, and installing it yourself could take a couple hours–not to mention the fact that these xenon conversion kits can run into the hundreds of dollars for the parts alone. But the difference in illumination can be dramatic, and the kids seem to think they look cool, too.
How about you folks, have you replaced your headlight bulbs recently? Any tips for those who are starting down that road? Tell us about it in the comments, and maybe we can all learn a thing or two from your experience.
Editor’s note: Can you see clearly? If not, visit Advance Auto Parts for the best in headlights, wipers and more.
Are the winters warm where you live? If so, you’re among the lucky few, because most of us have to deal with freezing temperatures, snowstorms, salted roads and the rest of it. That’s why it makes sense for snow-belt residents to store nonessential vehicles for the winter. You’ll still need your daily driver to get around, of course, but it’s best not to tackle winter roads in your weekend cruiser, whether it’s a classic convertible or a contemporary sports car.
So when you’re ready to put your pride and joy away till spring, check out my five essential tips for winter car storage. As long as you follow these five steps, your ride should fire right up when you’re reunited in the spring. Did I forget anything? Go ahead and tell me in a comment if you think I left out an important step.
1. Fill the gas tank and add fuel stabilizer
This may seem counterintuitive, since the car won’t be going anywhere for months. But if you store a car for the winter with a partially or mostly empty gas tank, condensation can form inside the tank, and you also run the risk of drying out the seals. So fill up that tank before you park it, and here’s another winter car care tip: don’t forget to add a fuel stabilizer like Sta-Bil so that the gas will stay fresh.
2. Connect your battery to a trickle charger
Your battery will inevitably go dead during winter car storage if you just leave it the way it is, and cold temperatures might knock it out for good, so you’ll need to take preemptive action. Some mechanics suggest taking the battery out altogether, but I’m not a fan of that; you lose all your electronic settings, for one thing, and for another, who knows what computer system you might mess up if it’s a modern car? What I recommend for winter car battery maintenance is picking up a “trickle charger” and making sure you run it at regular intervals to keep the battery charged. This lets you keep the battery hooked up in the car without any risk that it’ll wear itself out.
3. Overinflate your tires or remove the wheels altogether
If you let your car sit in the same spot for three or four months without preparing the tires, you’re bound to get flat spots. So here’s the deal: if you’ve got modern radial tires, add an extra 5-10psi of air for the winter–and if you’ve got old-school bias ply tires, put the car on jack stands, take the wheels off and stack them in a corner. For full protection, consider doing the same with radials, too. Hey, you’ll thank me come spring when you’re the only one who doesn’t need a replacement set of tires.
4. Keep the parking brake off
Here’s a little thing that a lot of people forget about. If you park a car for months with the emergency brake engaged, the e-brake could get stuck to the rotors and warp them, wreaking havoc on your braking performance. Just get some wheel chocks instead and stick one behind each wheel–problem solved.
5. Drive it ASAP!
I know I’m getting ahead of myself here, but seriously, don’t wait a minute longer than you have to. Cars like to be driven, and months of solitary confinement isn’t their idea of a good time. I’m not talking about a little trip around the block, either; when you drive a car that’s been in winter car storage, you’ll want to mix in plenty of highway driving to get the operating temperature up and circulate those fluids through the engine. Speaking of fluids, you’ll definitely want to get an oil change as soon as you take your car out of hibernation, but I’ll have more to say about that when I revisit this topic in the spring.
How about you–what are you planning to do when you store your car for the winter? Let me know; I always like to hear about what other mechanics next door are up to.
Editor’s note: visit Advance Auto Parts for a wide selection of quality auto parts and accessories. Buy online, pick up in store.
Graphic courtesy of Carpediem Mag.
A lot of people come to me for car advice, and here’s one thing I’ve noticed: everyone thinks they know about spark plugs, but almost no one really does. So I decided to make this column all about spark plugs, because trust me, your engine relies on them every day–which means you do, too. That’s why I want you to get familiar with these little buggers. Let’s dive right in with a little Q&A.
What do spark plugs do?
Here’s a fun fact about your engine: unless you’re driving an electric car, in which case this article definitely isn’t for you, you’ve got what’s known as an ICE, which stands for “internal combustion engine.” Now, combustion requires a spark, doesn’t it. See where I’m going with this? Spark plugs are a crucial part of your engine because they’re what makes that combustion happen, both at ignition and while the engine moves through each combustion cycle during operation. When the plugs aren’t doing their job, your engine’s not getting the full combustion benefit, so everything from acceleration and fuel economy to engine smoothness is going to be negatively affected.
How do I know when to replace spark plugs?
My rule of thumb is that if something seems funny about your engine, you should check the spark plugs first. If you’re a hands-off kind of car owner, of course, you’ll just take it to your mechanic and get it diagnosed. But if you want to inspect the plugs yourself, it’s a pretty easy job. Check your owner’s manual to find out where the plugs are located, and then pop the hood and have a look. If the plugs appear dirty, that could mean you’ve got an oil leak or excessive carbon deposits–and if they look damaged, your engine might be running too hot or misfiring.
Keep in mind, though, that even if they look fine, they might be past their prime. Consult your owner’s manual for when to replace spark plugs, too, and if you think you’re past due, I’d recommend replacing them, just to be safe.
Can I replace my own spark plugs?
Now, I said you could check them, but I didn’t say you should try to replace them! Truth is, for a seasoned backyard mechanic, popping the old plugs out and putting new ones in is pretty straightforward. But if you haven’t done it before, you should probably have someone like me looking over your shoulder the first time through. I know the internet’s full of DIY guides on how to change spark plugs, but there’s some serious wrenching going on here–literally. You need a socket wrench, and you may need a specific spark-plug socket and other accessories as well. Plus, there’s a fairly advanced technique called “gapping” that may or may not be required, depending on your vehicle’s age and other factors.
Promise me this: if you do try one of those tutorials on how to change spark plugs, please, wait for the engine to cool off first. I’m talking four hours, minimum. Those plugs are responsible for combustion, remember? Better safe than scalded!
What about cleaning spark plugs?
Here’s where I differ from a lot of DIY-ers. You’ll find various folk remedies for cleaning spark plugs, but for peace of mind, I say just swap ‘em out if they’re that dirty. Because how much money are you really saving, right? Twenty bucks? Fifty? Spark plugs are a car owner’s dream, really, because they’re that rare important engine part that’s also inexpensive. If it’s my car, I believe my engine’s worth that kind of investment, every day of the week. Give it the shiny new plugs it deserves.
What do you think?
I’ve seen a few spark plugs in my day, but I’ll be the first to admit, this article isn’t the last word on the subject. Got anything to contribute? See things differently? Chime in with a comment, and help me and everyone else here understand where you’re coming from.
“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”
And it kills me, because today I want to talk about auto suspension maintenance–and if there’s anything you don’t want to roll the dice with, it’s your suspension.
Think about it: just what is a suspension in a car? In simplest terms, it’s what holds your car together. It keeps the wheels pointed in the right direction, and it enables you to maintain control when you hit bumps or go around corners. In other words, the car suspension is a pretty big deal.
Nonetheless, I get people telling me all the time that they don’t have to replace shocks or car springs. “The car still runs and drives, right?” they’ll say. “You know what, I’ll just wait until they get real bad.”
Well, I’m here to tell you, that’s not the right attitude to have about your auto suspension. Fact is, the more proactive you are with your suspension springs and such, the better off you’ll be.
For example, a lot of people wonder when to replace shocks. The answer is, “Whenever your mechanic says so!” You need to have your suspension checked regularly by a trained professional, because if you don’t replace shocks till they’re obviously spent, it’s already too late. Without shocks, you have much less control over the car, so your risk of getting into an accident is much higher.
And if you’re wondering about struts, they’re even more important, because they’re part of what holds the whole suspension together. I mean, you’re really playing with fire if you don’t replace struts when they need it. Technically, you could drive a car without shocks, although it would be highly dangerous. But you can’t drive a car without struts, and you don’t want to find out what it’s like to lose a strut on the road.
My point today is simple: if your car suspension “ain’t broke,” don’t rest on your laurels! Have regular suspension inspections performed by a trustworthy mechanic, and replace those shocks and struts whenever you’re told they’re on their way out. It won’t always be cheap, but your safety and the safety of those around you is well worth the hit to your wallet.
Graphic courtesy of Lifex.hr.
When I think of the word “hypermiling,” a lot of negative stuff comes to mind. I think of folks going 55 mph and holding up traffic on the Interstate, or putting cardboard over their radiators (I’m not kidding!) because it supposedly improves fuel economy.
But hypermiling doesn’t have to be like that. At heart, it’s just about squeezing every possible mile out of each gallon of gas or diesel, and with fuel prices as high as they are these days, that’s a goal that every driver can appreciate. So I went ahead and made a list of reasonable hypermiling techniques; you know, things that regular folk like you and me can pull off without too much trouble. Follow these tips and I promise you, you’re going to spend less on fuel without expending much effort.
1. Keep your tires properly inflated.
I can’t tell you how many times I’ve gone to do some work on my wife’s car, or my kids’ cars, and found that the tire pressures were way too low. It’s easy to let this slide, because the way modern tires are designed, they always look a little flat — and they keep looking only a little flat even when they’re quite low on air. It gets worse with run-flat tires, which basically always look the same.
But here’s the thing: tires need their full allotment of air to roll efficiently. If they’re not inflated to the manufacturer’s specifications, you’ll need more energy to make them spin, and that means more fuel out of your tank.
So listen, do your wallet a favor and pick up a simple tire pressure gauge like this one from Autocraft. You don’t have to check the pressures every day or anything, but I’d say you want to check them every other time you stop to refuel. If they’re low, most filling stations have an air machine right there on the premises. You can honestly save a few miles per gallon or more just by incorporating regular tire-checks into your routine.
2. Take the route with the fewest full stops.
You’ve got the internet, right? Probably a few times over, what with your computer, your phone, your tablet — you name it. So put your favorite mapping program to work, and make sure that whenever you’re going somewhere, you’re maximizing continuous driving time and minimizing stops.
When you’re stopped, see, the engine’s still running, but you’re not going anywhere. Not good for MPG. Stop-and-go traffic can be even worse, because moving a stationary vehicle requires a lot of energy from the motor, and then you stop and repeat the process. On the other hand, so-called “steady-state” cruising is great for fuel economy. In a typical car, your MPG will increase by up to 50% in this scenario, so it often makes sense to take a longer route with fewer stops. Just do a little advance planning with one of those navigation programs, and you could save a lot of coin.
3. Be gentle with the throttle.
Americans have always loved good power, and as capable as engines are these days, it’s very tempting to goose that go-pedal at every opportunity. Not surprisingly, that’s not good for your fuel economy. But it’s not just about resisting the urge to burn a little rubber; there are also plenty of everyday situations where you can conserve fuel just by having a lighter foot.
Take the simple act of driving up a hill, for example. A lot of us will naturally ride the brakes on the way down a hill and then hammer the throttle on the way up, but trust me, there’s a better way. As long as there’s no one right behind you or in front of you, what you should do is anticipate that uphill climb by building a little extra speed on the way down, because that means you’ll need less energy to climb back up. And if no one’s behind you, don’t worry if your speed drops below the limit halfway up the hill. What’s your hurry? You’re saving fuel, right?
Another example is taking off from a stop sign or stop light. Again, our natural tendency is to step on it and keep up with traffic, but I’m here to tell you that it’s all about being smooth. Whereas big sudden throttle inputs open the floodgates in your engine, smooth progressive inputs keep the fuel flow nice and moderate. So be smooth out there, my friends, and save some money while you’re at it.
4. What do YOU think?
Now it’s your turn to chime in. Did I forget anything? What are some tricks that you use to conserve fuel? Let me know in the comments, and I might even add my own two cents.
Editor’s note: Visit Advance Auto Parts for tips on how to maximize your mileage.
Everyone knows you’ve got to get your car ready for snow season, but don’t forget about summer, folks. Your car could always use a little love, and summer presents some unique automotive challenges and opportunities. If you want to maximize your fun in the sun, check out my tips for making this car summer the best one yet.
1. Check Your Air Conditioning System
The thing about air conditioning systems is they have a way of quitting at the worst possible time. You might be stuck in traffic on a 90-degree day, for example, or in the middle of a scorching summer road trip through the Midwest. Sounds nasty, right? That’s why I recommend taking preemptive action and getting your air conditioning system checked before the summer months really heat up. Just head over to your trusted mechanic and have him run some diagnostic tests; it won’t cost you very much, and if anything needs fixing, you’ll be glad you didn’t find out the hard way.
2. Bring Out that Summer Shine
Washing your car in the winter months can seem pointless, because you’re just going to get it dirty again the next time you drive somewhere. But now that summer’s finally here, it’s worth putting in some quality time with your car’s paint and wheels. That means you’re going to want some car wash supplies, and I’m going to show you the absolute easiest way to achieve car detailing nirvana: just grab a bottle of Meguiar’s Ultimate Wash and Wax Anywhere. You don’t even need water! Just spray this stuff on your paint, grab a microfiber cloth, and wipe till dry. Don’t tell anyone, but I use it for my wheels, too. It only takes a few minutes to do the whole car, and you’ll be amazed at the results.
3. Check Your Washer Fluid
Most people are surprised by this one, but if you think about it, it makes sense. Winter brings inclement weather to most parts of the country, and that means folks have to squirt their windshields a lot more than usual. Result? Washer fluid reservoirs are often nearly dry by spring. Fortunately, that reservoir is usually right at the front of the engine bay, and it’s super-easy to open and refill yourself. Try this washer fluid from Rain X—I swear by it myself.
4. Focus on Inner Beauty
Last but not least, let’s not forget about the interior of your car. Like everything else, the cabin’s probably a little worse for wear thanks to winter stress. But that’s nothing a good scrub can’t fix. To remove all that winter dirt and grime from your dashboard and other hard-to-clean areas, try something like these interior detail brushes from Autocraft. And to get your upholstery looking fresh again, check out Turtlewax’s upholstery cleaner—it even leaves a protective coating when you use it.
5. Lubricate your Brakes
Another consequence of harsh winter driving is that your brakes have to work harder than usual. That means they could use some lubrication to get back up to snuff, so I recommend grabbing a bottle of Permatex’s Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube. It’s a cheap and incredibly effective product. If you’re not comfortable putting it on yourself, just bring it to your mechanic and ask him to give you a hand.
6. Enjoy the Drive!
Follow these tips and I promise you, you’ll be ready for anything summer’s got in store. Drive safe, friends, and have fun out there.
Editor’s note: As you plan to hit the road this summer, get trusted tips on how to maximize your mileage.
Automotive design is a funny thing. There are no objective truths in it, no yes-or-no answers, which is frustrating for a backyard mechanic like me. See, I like problems that have clear solutions: you set your goal, put your time in, and before you know it, boom — problem solved. But when your goal is to make a great-looking car body, it’s a hope and a prayer. As the old saying goes, you pays your money and you takes your chances.
That’s why I’ve got a lot of sympathy for car designers, and I think the public is too quick to criticize their efforts. I’ve always kept a mental list of quote-unquote ugly vehicles that really don’t deserve that reputation. So here they are: my Top 5 cars that should get more stylistic respect.
5: Toyota Prius
I think people like to hate on the Prius because of what it stands for. There’s this notion out there that every Prius driver wears a holier-than-thou smirk. Well, I know plenty of Prius drivers who simply appreciate the roomy hatchback interior and great fuel economy. And if you take an honest look at the Prius’s car body, you’ll see that when it got redesigned for 2010, they made it a lot sleeker from stem to stern. The interior is a home run, too — a spaceship for the street.
4: MINI Cooper Coupe
The Cooper Coupe has gotten the cold shoulder for its styling from the moment it appeared, but as with the Prius, I think folks are conflating two unrelated issues. In the Coupe’s case, the real problem is that a lot of people claim it just doesn’t make any sense. I can understand that — after all, it’s basically a regular Cooper Hardtop hatchback without the hatchback and backseat — but that doesn’t mean it’s ugly! When I look at the Cooper Coupe, I see shades of a fixed-roof Mazda Miata, or even the classic BMW Z3 M Coupe. Plus, when it comes to factory-built cute car accessories or a car body kit, MINI is the all-time auto accessory champ.
3: Mazda 3
The Mazda 3 was the car that pioneered Mazda’s “smiley face” school of design — and as soon as its grinning grille burst on the scene, the fashion police were out in force. But I’ll tell you what I like about the 3’s much-maligned schnozz: it’s distinctive, first of all, but more than that, it genuinely makes me smile when I see it. There’s something to be said for a car that puts you in a good mood just because of the expression on its face. And thanks to extensive aftermarket support, there are plenty of vehicle accessories for the 3 that can jazz up its appearance.
2: Nissan Cube
I’ve learned in my time that familiar concepts often vary across cultures, so what’s cute here, for example, might not be cute over there. Well, judging by the Cube’s plummeting sales numbers, Americans don’t find it cute — whereas in Japan, it’s long been considered a cool car for young people, especially women. For my part, whenever I see a Cube drive by, with its asymmetrical windows and delivery-van profile, I think about what a neat first car it would be for teenagers. But I guess American teenagers don’t think it’s cute enough, and that’s a shame.
1: Chrysler PT Cruiser
They don’t even make this car anymore, but I had to make it my number-one, because I feel like the PT Cruiser always got penalized in the press for its looks. Unlike the Cube, mind you, the PT Cruiser was a very successful vehicle for Chrysler, so I know there’s a lot of Americans out there who agree with me on this. But when I read reviews of the PT Cruiser, I get the feeling that the critics just didn’t take it seriously. And that’s something I can’t really understand, because what Chrysler did with this car was take the humdrum Neon sedan and turn it into something with real 1930s-style visual impact. Was it sleek and chiseled like the latest performance cars? No sir, but it put eye-catching retro styling within reach of the average car shopper–and maybe I’m just getting old, but I wish more automakers would shake things up and give that a try.
Editor’s note: Advance Auto Parts carries a wide selection of items to improve your car’s appearance—dare we say, even “cute” car accessories.
Now, don’t get me wrong, hybrids can make sense under the right circumstances. If you do a lot of city driving, for example, nothing can beat a hybrid’s fuel economy. And hybrids like the Toyota Prius and Ford C-MAX are downright practical vehicles, even if you put their incredible fuel economy aside.
But diesel engine cars and diesel powered trucks have a lot to offer.
For one thing, they’re about as fuel-efficient on the highway as the most frugal hybrids, so urban fuel economy is the only compromise.
For another, they give you great low-end torque. That means you can effortlessly scoot away from traffic lights, and oftentimes you don’t even need to downshift to pass someone. It also makes diesel powered trucks a superior choice for towing and hauling.
Finally, diesel engine cars and trucks are known for being reliable for hundreds of thousands of miles. Unlike hybrids, diesels use simple, proven technology that has powered commercial vehicles like buses and dump trucks for decades.
Intrigued? Good. Here are my top diesel cars and diesel powered trucks for 2013.
Best Small Car: 2013 Volkswagen Golf TDI
The Golf hatchback is one of my favorite small cars no matter what’s under the hood, because you just can’t get its combination of versatility, European dynamics, and upscale ambiance anywhere else. But when you thrown in Volkswagen’s turbodiesel 2.0-liter inline-4, the pot only gets sweeter. Rated at a modest 140 horsepower but a robust 236 pound-feet of torque, the “TDI” diesel motor gives the Golf great get-up-and-go around town. What’s more, the EPA says it’s good for 30 mpg city/42 mpg highway, and I’ve seen real-world results near 50 mpg on the open road.
Best Midsize Car: 2014 Mazda6 Skyactiv Diesel
You can’t even buy this car yet, but trust me, it’s worth waiting for. The Mazda6 is all-new for 2014, with beautiful styling and a much nicer interior, but the big news is that it’s going to offered with a 2.2-liter turbodiesel inline-4. Based on early reports, you can expect around 280 pound-feet of torque from the Mazda diesel, as well as fuel economy in excess of 40 mpg.
If you absolutely need a midsize car right now, check out the VW Passat TDI, which shares the Golf’s motor. But if I were you, I’d wait for the more desirable Mazda.
Best Crossover/SUV: 2013 Mercedes-Benz ML350 BlueTEC
No Mercedes-Benz comes cheap, and the M-Class crossover is one of Benz’s pricier models. But if it fits your budget, you can’t go wrong with the diesel-powered ML350 BlueTEC. Blessed with an ultra-smooth 3.0-liter turbodiesel V6 that cranks out 240 horsepower and an incredible 455 pound-feet of torque, the ML350 BlueTEC delivers executive-grade acceleration and refinement. It also returns 20 mpg city/28 mpg highway, which is pretty amazing for a big rig like this.
Best Truck: 2013 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
If you haven’t been paying attention to diesel powered trucks lately, let me bring you up to speed. There’s a diesel fuel arms race going on between GM, Dodge, and Ford, and the horsepower and torque figures are completely insane. But I’ll tell you a little secret: it’s not just about the numbers. At 397 horsepower and 765 pound-feet of torque, GM’s 6.6-liter “Duramax” turbodiesel V8 trails Ford’s entry on paper (believe it or not), but in the real world, it’s the strongest truck motor you can buy. And compared to a gasoline-powered V8, it’s going to give you significantly better fuel economy, too.