Tuxlee Shares His Oil Change Tips

oil change tips

Hey, Tuxlee here. I’ve traveled to tons of Advance stores and automotive events, and one thing people always ask me about is changing their own oil. (My parents say I’ve done so many oil changes since I was a puppy that it turned my fur jet black—it’s a small badge of honor to me actually). I also hang out with some pretty knowledgeable people, and I’ve picked up a few tips over the years that will make your next DIY oil change a breeze, whether it’s your first time or if you’re on your 70th bottle.

My first tip is to buy a good pair of latex or nitrile gloves to keep your paws hands nice and clean. With the oil type, you have a few options on whether to go conventional, synthetic blend, or full synthetic (there’s also high mileage varations). I suggest you first stick with your car’s recommended oil viscosity—this is usually printed on your engine’s oil cap, or if not then in your owner’s manual—and then go from there. Conventional oil gets the job done, but synthetic oil lasts longer and performs better under heat and cold. I like both types, so you can read more about it here to see what works better for you.

Oil Change Tools and Supplies

Alright, you have your oil. You’ll need a few other supplies, all of which are sold at your local Advance store. P.S. You can get awesome deals on oil filters when you buy one of our oil change specials!

While you’re in the store, grab a free reminder decal to record the date and mileage of your next expected oil change. Or write it down in your car maintenance journal like I do.

•Oil filter
(Regular filters go with conventional oil, heavier duty filters pair better with synthetic oil)

•Oil filter wrench
(Some can get by using their hands or an old belt, but this is good to have)

•Oil drain plug gasket or crush washer
(Keeps leaky drips away)

•Oil drain pan
(So your oil doesn’t end up all over the driveway)

•Wrench for drain plug
(Look in your owner’s manual to find the size you need)

•Funnel
(For a smooth, no-mess pour. Trust me you’re going to need this)

•Rags
(To wipe off old oil and keep things neat)

•Safety glasses
(I don’t like barking out orders, but safety first!)

•Gloves
(Unless you want to look like a black Yorkipoo)

Oil Change Steps

Now you’re ready to give your car some tender love and oil!

1. Securely raise your vehicle on ramps or jack-stands (use a jack lift for the latter). Makes sure to put blocks behind your tires. If you can safely get under your vehicle without needing to raise it, then go for it.

oil change tips2. Warm up the engine for a couple minutes to get the oil warm (but not too long or the oil will be hot). Raise your hood and open the oil cap on top of your engine to let the old oil drain faster.

3. Get under the car and position your drain pan under the oil plug (account for the initial stream of oil shooting out further than directly under the plug).

4. Using your wrench, loosen the plug a few turns. Then finish loosening the plug with your hand, quickly pulling it away when the oil is starting to drain out. Be careful of hot motor oil (gloves help in this case).

5. Wipe the drain plug while the oil drains and inspect it for bent or broken threads. Replace the sealing washer if cracked or worn, or use a new metal crush washer if needed.

6. After the oil has drained (give it 10-30 minutes for a good drain if you have the time), wipe away oil residue from the oil pan and put the drain plug back in. Tighten it firmly, but don’t overdo it. Your owner’s manual will have the exact torque required.

Do me (and other animals) a favor, clean up oil leaks and don’t dispose of oil in your yard, streams, or waste-water drains. Your favorite Advance store will safely dispose of your used oil for free! Available at most of our 3,500 stores (unless prohibited by law).

7. Reposition your drain pan by the oil filter and remove it using your oil filter wrench (or hand if it will budge). Some wrenches work from the end, while others wrap around the filter.

8. If your filter still won’t budge, puncture it with a screwdriver at its lowest point to drain, then use the same screwdriver to spin off the filter. A little more oil will come out when you spin off the filter, so have your rags handy.

9. Apply a film of clean oil to the top of the new filter gasket. Then spin the filter on using only your hand. Go ¾ of a turn after you feel the gasket make contact with the engine after spinning it on.

oil change tips10. Double check the filter and drain plug for tightness, then fill your engine with the recommended viscosity and amount of motor oil. (Again, your owner’s manual will provide this).

11. Determine your oil level using the dipstick, then check for any leaks. Start the engine and check for leaks again. Bring used motor oils to Advance for proper disposal or recycling.

Well, that’s a wrap. You can now safely do your own oil change or you learned some tips. Who said you can’t teach an old dog new tricks?!

Find satisfaction in knowing you’re taking good care of your car. Your car will be sure to return the favor! For more oil change tips and a helpful video, click here

Motor Oil: What Do the Numbers Really Mean?

Our Mechanic Next door delves into the origins and meaning of motor oil viscosity grades.

“220. 221. Whatever it takes.”

motor oil 1

That infamous line of reasoning worked for Jack Butler (Michael Keaton) in the 1983 movie Mr. Mom, so it should work for you, too, when it comes to selecting the right motor oil grade, right? Simply pick a number? Nope! Just like with electricity, when it comes to car oil, numbers matter – especially if you want to protect your engine.

Oil “weights” or grades – such as 10W-30 – are actually a numerical coding system developed by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) to grade oils based on their viscosity.

Viscosity is measured by the how long it takes a specific amount of oil to flow through a specific-sized opening at a specific temperature. The longer the oil takes to flow through, the higher the viscosity. The tool used to conduct that test is a viscometer.

Think of pouring pancake syrup from the bottle – at warmer temperatures, the syrup pours fast and easy, while at colder temperatures, it’s thicker and more difficult to get flowing. The same can be said for engine oil.

The particular challenge with motor oil, however, is that automotive engines need engine oil to be both thin and free flowing when temperatures are freezing and the engine is cold, but thick when it’s hot out and the engine has reached operating temperature. That’s where multi-weight or multi-grade oils enter the picture and why they were created.American Petroleum Institute

SAE’s J300 standard, first published in 1911 and revised numerous times since, classifies oil into 11 viscosity grades – 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 – with the “W” signifying “winter,” not weight. Oils first received this “W” designation from SAE in the 1950s. The lower the number preceding the W, the lower the temperature for which the oil is rated. Those winter numbers were modified further after a rash of catastrophic engine failures in the early 1980s. Unusually cold weather in the U.S. and Europe caused oil to gel. When this occurred, the engine would still start, but it couldn’t pull the gelled oil out of the oil pan, resulting in the failures. As a result, SAE added a low-temperature test to measure pumping viscosity as well, and indicated this oil with the W specification.

Back to the idea of multi-weight oils. A popular oil, such as 10W-30, performs like two oils in one when it comes to engine lubrication. At colder temperatures it is and delivers a 10W-grade oil performance, while at higher temperatures it is and performs like a 30-grade oil – according to SAE’s standards and tests – providing engine protection at both ends of the temperature spectrum, which is important since engines have to operate in a range of temperatures. Think of it this way – that SAE 30 oil you might use in your riding mower has the same viscosity as the 10W-30 oil in your vehicle, but only at 210°, the maximum temperature that SAE requires. The difference arises at colder temperatures where the SAE 30 oil can’t perform, necessitating some enhancements that make it a multi-grade oil. At those lower temperatures, that’s where the 10W oil and its characteristics come into play.

Oil’s desired performance characteristics at varied temperatures, as specified by SAE, are achieved through the addition of Viscosity improvers (VI) or modifiers that increase the oil’s viscosity as temperatures rise. The result is oil that performs and provides engine lubrication no matter what the temperature.

The good news for drivers is that they don’t need to be an engineer or chemist to know which car oil to use, and they don’t have to change their oil grade whenever the temperature changes. Simply follow the motor oil grade recommended by the vehicle manufacturer for optimal engine protection in all types of weather.

oil sealIt’s important to note that SAE also has a coding system for gear oil, such that used in a manual transmission, and that it’s different than the ratings for engine oil. So if there’s a bottle of 85W-140 oil sitting on the barn or garage shelf gathering dust, don’t put it in your engine.

And finally, when choosing an oil, look for one with the American Petroleum Institute “donut” seal on the bottle. It indicates that the oil meets API performance standards.

Three Good Reasons to Change Your Own Oil

Oil changeSometimes, handing your kids over to another caregiver is something you can’t avoid. You need a babysitter if you’re ever going to have a night out, right? Parents can’t be parents all the time; they’re going to need some help along the way.

Still, ask any parent, and I think they’ll agree: it’s always a little nerve-wracking to entrust your kids’ welfare to someone else.

Many of us car-lovers feel the same way about our beloved vehicles. And when it comes to things you can do yourself, one of the best examples is changing your own oil.

Here are my three reasons to start changing your own oil. Think about it: if you decide to DIY from now on, you’ll never be left wondering if your baby’s been in good hands or not.

 

1. It’s Cheaper

Typical cars take 4-5 quarts of oil, and you’ll also need a new oil filter to finish the job. Guess how much these items cost at an auto parts store. $30? $40? Actually, you can get out the door for barely 20 bucks, especially if you take advantage of the “oil change specials” that always seem to be running. Cheaper than you thought, right?

Now, you may see a $19.99 oil change advertised at the local Quickie Lube or what have you, but there are a few problems with that. First, they tend to use generic, one-size-fits-all motor oil that leaves you with no choice in the matter. One of the great things about DIY is that you get to buy whatever kind of oil you want. Second, they’ll try to hard-sell you on all sorts of “important” services that are really just a waste of your money and time. And third, can you really trust those guys to do conscientious work for $19.99 a pop? Won’t you be a lot more conscientious yourself?

In short, you’re going to save money changing your own oil, and you’re also going to gain a lot of peace of mind.

 

2. It’s Not As Hard As You Think

Let me explain the two possible scenarios as far as actually changing your oil is concerned. Number one is the old-fashioned way: you actually get under your car and do the dirty work. Even this procedure is very straightforward; in fact, we’ve got a handy dandy little video on how to change your own oil that walks you through every step. It’s fun, because you feel like you’re getting to know your car like never before.

But if you go with number two, you may even be able to stay on your feet. I’m talking about using an extractor, which is a simple device that sucks the old oil out of the top of the engine, letting you simply pour the new stuff in afterward. There are plenty available on the Advance Auto Parts website, and if you make this investment upfront, you’ll still save money in the long run. The only thing to be mindful of is the location of your oil filter — if it’s on the bottom of the engine, you’ll have to get under the car to remove the oil filter, though it’s a lot less messy without all that hot oil in the tank just waiting to spill out!

 

3. It’s a Gateway to Further Exploration

If you’re like me, changing your own oil could just be the beginning. I used to be scared of working on engines, as if they were these nasty creatures just waiting to bite my hand off. But the truth is, they’re just machines, and the more you know about them, the more you’ll be able to catch little problems before they turn into big ones. While you’re changing your oil, for example, it’s easy to check the drive and accessory belts, so why not learn about those, too? Maybe your spark plugs are overdue for replacement; why not get some basic tools and do it yourself? DIY’ing can be addictive in the best way, so give the oil change a shot, and see if it turns into a bridge to more exciting projects down the line.

Have You Changed Your Own Oil?

Tell us about your experiences! What would your advice be to a first-time oil change DIY’er? If you’re a first-timer yourself, got any questions for those of us who’ve been there before?

Editor’s note: Save more when you do it yourself! Advance Auto Parts offers Oil Change Specials to help you tackle your maintenance projects—and save. We’ll even recycle your used oil, too.

A common sense guide to keeping your engine oil fresh

If you asked the good folks in my neighborhood how often they’re supposed to change their oil, I guarantee you they’d all give the same response: “Every 3,000 miles.”

And if you followed up by asking them what motor oils their cars require, how many quarts of oil their cars take, and which motor oil brandsare the best, I guarantee you’d get a lot of blank stares.

oil changeThat’s because most people in this country believe the myth that every car needs an oil change every 3,000 miles. And once they drop the car off at the garage, they trust that the mechanics on duty will get all of the details right.

In fact, most cars can safely go far more than 3,000 miles between changes. And when it’s finally time for an oil change, you should know just as much about what your car needs as a knowledgeable mechanic.

Debunking the 3,000-Mile Myth

I’m not sure how this one got started, but it has sure put a lot of big oil executives’ kids through college. Listen, you can either trust the mechanic who suggests the same 3,000-mile interval to every single customer, or you can consult the service schedule in your owner’s manual and trust the people who built your car.

I know people who build cars, and they design their vehicles to withstand far more stress than the service schedule allows. So if your owner’s manual recommends an oil change every 7,500 miles, rest assured that your engine is designed to go even longer on a batch of oil without missing a beat.

Trust me on this one. Don’t worry about draining perfectly good engine oil every 3,000 miles. Only change it when your car’s engineers say you should.

Knowledge is Power

Here’s what I do every time I go in for an oil change, and I recommend you do the same.

1. Know Your Viscosity

Viscosity is that funny combination of numbers and letters you see on a bottle of engine oil. 5W-30 is a common one; so is 10W-40. It basically refers to how easily the oil flows at different temperatures. Consult your owner’s manual for the recommended viscosity, and double-check with your mechanic that he plans to use it.

2. Know Your Car’s Oil Capacity

Find the page in your manual where oil capacity is specified. It will probably be in the neighborhood of five quarts, although some specialized engines can take eight or more. Keep that number in mind, and ask your mechanic how many quarts he’ll be putting in. It’s a good way to guard against overfilling, and also to make sure your mechanic’s on the ball.

3. Choose a Quality Engine Oil

I’ll give you a couple options here, depending on how involved you want to get. At a minimum, you’ll want to ask your mechanic about his motor oil brands of choice, and why. All motor oils are not created equal; you should only use motor oils with the American Petroleum Institute’s seal of approval. You might also want to read up on the benefits of synthetic oil and mention that, too. And if you’re a real stickler like me, hey, don’t be afraid to buy your own oil and bring it to your mechanic. That’s the best way to ensure that a high-quality product is keeping your car’s heart beating.

Editor’s note: If you do your own car maintenance, you can save even more with Oil Change Specials from Advance Auto Parts. Advance will also recycle your used motor oil free of charge—at one of more than 3,500 stores. (Most locations, unless prohibited by law.)

 

The importance of Engine Oil: the sweet fluid that keeps your car running smoothly

I work a lot of long hours. I start early and often finish late, and as anyone around me (particularly my wife) knows, I drink a lot of coffee. It’s the sweet black elixir that keeps me going and helps me through the day.

image of engine oil

Speaking of precious elixirs (You were waiting for that, weren’t you?), engine oil—commonly known as motor oil—is the same thing for cars. Your car’s engine is a series of complicated, hot, fast-moving parts, and engine oil is what keeps all those parts lubricated and running smoothly. As the parts heat up, so does the oil, so it’s very important to have the right type of motor oil, in the right amount, and keep it changed regularly.

The bottom line is, pay attention to the specifications in your owner’s manual and you’ll be happier than my wife during a sale at Macy’s. Buy the correct type of engine oil, in the correct weight. Some manufacturers specifically recommend synthetic motor oil, and if you use a different kind, it could void your warranty. Weight has to do with the temperatures in which you run your car (winter or summer) and also how thick the oil becomes when heated. Bear in mind that you don’t want it too thick when it’s cold or too thin when the engine heats up. This is particularly important in new cars, where the tolerances (gaps between moving parts) can be extremely thin, so you want to make sure the oil isn’t thicker than recommended.

If you’re committed to a lot of do-it-yourself jobs, changing your own engine oil is very easy and relatively painless (although it can get really messy) but even if your mechanic changes your engine oil as a part of your regular service, it’s never a bad idea to keep a quart in your car and do a quick check of your oil levels when you fill your tank up…just be careful, as your engine gets VERY hot and its really best to check oil when the engine is cooler. So make gassing up and checking oil your first stop.

Just make sure the motor oil quart has certification on it from whatever your manual recommends: likely the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) and preferably the API (American Petroleum Institute). They regulate and make sure the oil is of good quality and thickness.

The bottom line is, your car needs engine oil the way you need water (or I need coffee). It’s very easy to keep an eye on the engine oil and change it regularly for many years of happy, reliable engine life. Happy motoring.

 

Editor’s Note: Advance Auto Parts can assist you in finding the optimal engine oil, plus all of the right tools such as jacks, oil drain pans, gloves and more—to ensure the job goes smoothly. On top of that, Advance Auto Parts also recycles used motor oil.  So after you perform an oil change, bring your used oil back to the store for clean and easy recycling.